The very first project is particularly remarkable looking, yet is likewise incredibly helpful, and you’ll see why as the design comes together. So the very first thing we’ll need is a thin sheet of aluminium from which we can cut two long thin lengths.
The simplest method to do this is by scoring groves in the aluminium with a craft knife and after that flexing them consistently up until they break complimentary. As soon as you’ve got 2 of them they can be collaborated utilizing a spare piece of aluminium with some screws and nuts. With that done we now have to start working on the circuitry for the LED strip lights. As we want to have the ability to change their brightness, we need a little dimmer circuit. This needs to have a power jack soldered to its input terminals, and 2 loose wires soldered to its output terminals, which will be connected to the LEDs later. We’re now going to set this into cement, so to avoid cement and wetness getting to anything important we can utilize some blue tack to protect the power socket solder tabs, and after that some electrical tape around the dimmer itself.
They can now be mounted inside a little plastic mould of some kind – I utilized an old business card holder. The power socket has to be safely stayed with the side with some more blue tack so that it will be available later. So now it’s time to have some enjoyable as we can now mix up some cement and gloop it into the plastic mould, making sure it surrounds the electronic devices totally. The aluminium strip can likewise be placed, and as you can see I added some screws to its end to provide it more grip so that it will not take out later once the cement as set.
To complete it off we plop on a few small pebbles to give it some more interest. The same can be done to the other end of the aluminium, just this time without any electronic devices. Once again, we can include a few pebbles on top for visual impact. As soon as the cement has actually set, we can pull the moulds off and as you can see we have actually got some pretty classy looking weighted feet. All we need to do now is puppy off the blue tack that we utilized on the power socket, and use some superglue to attach some rubber pads to the bottom to provide it some grip.
As you can see, it’s taking shape and is starting to look very special undoubtedly. I left the protective film in place until this point simply to prevent fingerprints, as having it fingerprint free will permit the LEDs to stick to it more dependably. I’m utilizing a brand name that has great colour quality, and appears like daylight. Now just a fast warning about LED strips and that’s DON’T GET CHEAP ONES. Inexpensive ones tend to get dimmer over time and have abysmal colour quality so simply spend a little extra and get some good ones. I have actually found these ones just recently and they’re respectable – links in the description, CRI of 90+, so pretty good for the rate. So once again, just avoid cheap ones and get something that’s a lot much better. Once they’re completely stuck down they can be soldered to the output wires of the dimmer. I utilized a multimeter to inspect the polarity, but if you don’t have one just utilize trial and error and switch them around if the LEDs don’t illuminate.
One final touch is to add some finishing oil to the pebbles – this provides a glossy appearance, as if they’re still wet directly from the beach. Looking good! So now a 12v power adapter can be linked to the power socket, and the brightness can be changed utilizing the dimmer. As you can see, it looks incredibly remarkable, practically like something out of Star Trek … however, exactly what is it exactly? Well, in other words, it’s a work light. As the LED lights surround whatever is below them, they light up whatever with a soft almost shadow-less light that is simple on the eyes yet supplies definitely wonderful visibility. Pretty helpful for research, playing with electronic devices, sketching drawings, and even sewing. You get the picture. Outstanding presence from a single power efficient and cool looking device. Keeping with the modern si-fi lighting scheme going on here, it’s time to start on the next project. Once again, we’ll require some aluminium for this … I understand, I know, however while I do undoubtedly like working with aluminium, there is a practical reason for using it so much in these projects due to the fact that it wicks heat far from the LED strips mounted to it, keeping them cool and increasing their life expectancy considerably.
Just as before, I got my pieces from a bigger sheet, utilizing the knife and bend technique to trim them down to size. Now we need some lengths of angled aluminium, from which we need to cut off 2 smaller pieces. These need to then have a range of holes made through them, which will be for installing the aluminium angles to the aluminium sheet, in addition to offering space for two power sockets, and an on/off switch. The power sockets can be wired up in parallel, as there are 2 of them simply for daisy chaining several lights together if desired, and after that the on/off switch can likewise be added to the circuit. I’m utilizing a toggle switch for a nice tactile feel. We can now use some PCB standoff pillars and accompanying screws to install them both to the aluminium sheet – one at the top, and the other at the bottom. As you can see, I’ve threaded the power wires through some holes to the front, so we’re once again ready to include the LEDs.
We want two short lengths of these, so cut them down to a suitable size and solder them together in parallel. Before mounting them I included some electrical tape below at the top and bottom of the aluminium. This should not strictly be essential, as you might have observed in the previous task, but it is good practice in order to prevent short circuits with the aluminium. Now technically this might be simply plugged in and the LEDs would light up …
But would look pretty uninteresting and having a direct unblocked view of the LEDs would be really uneasy on your eyes, as these strips have the tendency to be extremely severe and glaring to take a look at. This isn’t really as much of an issue on the work light project due to the fact that the LEDs face down, but this time we have to find a solution for it. So, this is where this task’s unique trick is available in, for which we’ll require 2 clear a4 acetate sheets. These are incredibly low-cost, and you can discover some connect to them in the description. Now, we’re going to utilize these to diffuse the light, and to make them ideal for this function we have to invest a lot of elbow grease sanding them down on both sides to make them incredibly frosted. It takes quite a while to obtain them to this point, but it deserves it for such a great finish. We can now fold over the edges of these sheets and glue them to the aluminium like so, with one closer, and the other further out to make a gap between them. Once dried the light is total, and it looks considerably more interesting now that the diffusion sheets have been included.
As there’s a hole on the back of each piece of aluminium angle, they can be hung onto a wall either vertically, or horizontally. Now for the grand turn on – again using a 12v power adapter. As you can see, the diffusion sheets do a fantastic job at softening the light and making it much easier on the eyes, while making the entire thing look rather modern also. You can even daisy chain more than one together, like I mentioned previously, to offer lighting to a whole room.
Right, now it’s time for the third and last job, and this one is really uncommon, and must be exceptionally useful for house lighting. I’m pretty delighted about it. So for this one we’ll first need a length of aluminium tubing, and after clamping it in a workbench we can use a bolt to thread it for installing later. Now it can be trimmed down to approximately 11cm, and a hole drilled through the end outermost from the thread we simply made. After we have actually got 4 of these short rods, we can now get a long length of angled aluminium and drill some holes at each end through which we can mount these rods in location. After making two of these, we now have to get some tin foil and bunch it approximately make tiny ridges and crevices. I’m using gloves here so that I don’t mistakenly make a hole with a fingernail, as it’s rather fragile, and to likewise avoid natural oils from being left on the foil as it has to be glued down in just a moment and, like I mentioned previously, oil can harm adhesion.
So now we have to get a big sheet of cardboard, onto which we can use some spray install glue to attach the foil in place. Try not to press down too hard as it is necessary to keep the rough texture that we’ve given the foil, so we wish to prevent smoothing it out. As soon as the entire card has actually been covered you need to have something that appears like this, and the two aluminium angles can now be secured to it on each side utilizing some nuts and bolts.
Now we need some more lengths of angled aluminium, and as you can see they need to have two small holes at each end. Now some LED strips can be stuck down along one side like so. Once again, I’m using some great quality strips as less expensive ones just aren’t worth using. We can now grab some electrical wire, and thread it through the holes we made in the rods as well as through the holes on the aluminium bars. Once they are pulled tight, we can utilize some hot glue to hold everything in location.